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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#1 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 5:21:10 PM(UTC)
Tom Wheeler

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We had a request to share our Build Thread here on the IMAC website, we are happy to do so. The build started a few weeks ago, so for now we are posting to catch up with our current progress. Thank you, Tom Wheeler

Ron, Ralph and I are getting back to the building board. We are constructing two more Kam Aero's, one is going to be Ron's and the other is going to be mine. But if there is anyone out there who wants one built for them, we would be glad to build one of these for you and delay our own build. Just let us know.

We will be doing complete build documentation on these two Kam Aero's right here on this thread.....say tuned...

Tom

Edited by user Thursday, November 8, 2018 5:57:38 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

thanks 4 users thanked Tom Wheeler for this useful post.
Doug Pilcher on 11/8/2018(UTC), Rob Willis on 11/8/2018(UTC), Aaron Schrader on 11/8/2018(UTC), heliperry on 11/9/2018(UTC)
Offline Tom Wheeler  
#2 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 5:31:14 PM(UTC)
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Ok, here we go....

Ron and I started out the day by first doing an inventory of all the plywood parts that makes up both motor box assemblies. Ron then marked the locations for the 1/4" motor mount holes on each of the firewalls using the plans as a guide. Ron's aircraft will have be set up for a DA 170 and mine for a DA 200, both will have 3 degrees Right and 1 degree down thrust using SWB motor mount. The motor box sides, top and bottom have firewall locations for a long motor box in the case of the two cylinder 170 and for a short motor box for the 4 cylinder 200. Because of the differing motor box lengths, each firewall will have slightly different proper locations for the motor mounts. So the 200 firewall has the motor mount slightly more left and up then the firewall for the 170.

Once Ron marked the hole locations we then set up the drill press with the drill bed titled at 3 degrees so that the motor mount holes will align with the bolts going through them tilted 3 degrees.

While Ron was working on the firewalls, I sanded a tapper to the 1/2" x 3/4" hardwood landing rails so that the front of each rail would match the angle of the plywood former at the front of the exhaust tunnel. Then using Zpoxy, I glued and clamped each rail to the inside of each motor box side making sure I made both a left and right side. This could be done after gluing each motor box together, but we find it easier to line it up and clamp them in place first.

While the rails were curing, using a drafting pencil and straight edge, I marked glue guide lines to each of the motor box parts. This was done so we can use our Hysol long nose glue gun and lay down a nice straight bead of Hysol to each part at their proper location, prior to assembly, so when we clamp it all together the beads will already be there and will have the highest strength. You will see these lines when we start gluing on Wednesday.

The motor boxes at this time are just dry fitted together to make sure everything lines up and also to plan our main clamp locations. When we start the gluing process, I'm sure we will add more clamps and weights to hold everything in place and alignment.

We had a little shorter day then we would have liked, so we ended at this point. Not working tomorrow, but Wednesday we should be able to glue and assemble the motor boxes and weigh all of the balsa sheet stock.
Tom
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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#3 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 5:44:49 PM(UTC)
Tom Wheeler

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Today we were lucky enough to have Ralph spend the morning with us and give a helping hand, so we got quite a bit done.

First thing we did was just to drill 2.5" lighting holes in each firewall centered on the motor mount location. Next was to start assembling each motor box. You can see in the first picture of this operation the glue guide lines I drew on each part yesterday and that today are running beads of Hysol 9462. With the beads on each part we started to assemble each motor box first by laying one side on the board. Now the firewall, motor box floor and the two rear formers were set in place. Next the other motor box side with glue beads already on was place in position. While the assembly is still on its side, we glued the front top motor box piece in place to the firewall and motor box front sides.

What we do that is somewhat different then the instructions is that we now rotate the whole assembly so that the motor box is resting on its top. Because the front of the motor box has 1/8" thick ply top, we use some 1/8" ply stock as a shim at the rear of the motor box so the whole assembly is level. We now glue the landing gear plate and the angled exhaust tunnel ply front former in place as well.

We use speed squares to make sure everything in aligned properly then we add a weight to the landing gear plate and then start clamping everything to keep it tight and square. We completed the first main part of the motor box assemblies for both aircraft. When it all cures, we will then add the fuse side formers to each motor box.

Our next item was to make the four fuse longerons for each aircraft from the 8 red tipped 3/8 x 3/8 x 48" balsa sticks. We taped them up in bunches of four and used the radial saw to cut a 45 degree scarf. We then taped our long straight edge to the bench and then glued the longerons together using Titebond II and wax paper between them. Once they were all glued we then taped them in place to cure.

Now it was on to weighing and marking all of the sheeting, this can take some time, but it definitely is worthwhile. What is very nice and somewhat unique with the Kam Aero's is that there is "C" grain balsa for the wing sheeting and "A" grain balsa for the rest of the aircraft. "C" grain is perfect for wings as its strength is in its span whereas the "C" is easier to bend around shapes like turtle decks and such.

Another great point about Kam Aero's is that the balsa quality is great and the weights of the sheeted are extremely close. Between the two kits we have 52 sheets of "C" grain wing sheeting and the weight varied very little. So after we weighed all of the wing sheeting we split the stock up into 4 equal bundles, (2 for each aircraft) each bundle weighed 310 grams. We did the same for all of the "A" grain balsa and split that into 2 bundles, (one for each aircraft).

Our next adventure was to start building the fuse sides. As we have used in the past, 12 x 12" interlocking foam floor title are used as a base for our fuse side building. With the foam on the table we then laid out the each fuse side drawing, covered with wax paper, and then used 11 gage aluminum angle stock pinned in place for the longeron guides. Next it was simply gluing in all of the pre-cut vertical 3/8" balsa sticks in place over the plans with Titebond II glue and "T" pins. Once all of the verticals and hatch rails were glued, we then added some clamps to tighten everything up a bit.

That is all for today, we'll let everything cure and get back to the build soon, if not tomorrow, Saturday for sure.

Tom
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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#4 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 5:54:02 PM(UTC)
Tom Wheeler

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I wasn't able to work at Ron's today (recently started a kind of cool part time job as a test driver for Roush, and they called me for today and tomorrow) in any case Ron did get some things done. I stopped by and took some pictures. He first glued in the fuse side support formers to each motor box. It's important that they are at a right angle to the motor in order for the fuse to fit properly. Ron came up with a clever idea by making 2.5" square 1/2" thick balsa blocks that were clamped in place on the motor and the formers clamed to them. This was a much easier process then using speed square as we have done in the past.

He also glued in the optional diagonal 1/8 x 3/8" balsa fuse side bracing. This is used to help reduce and "wash boarding" of balsa fuse sides.

Tom
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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#5 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 6:00:45 PM(UTC)
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Stopped by Ron's after work this afternoon. We marked the location for the landing gear on both aircraft making sure that the gear mounting bolts will go through the centers of the hard wood landing gear blocks. We also drilled the holes for the 6-32 x 3/4" self tapping sheet metal re-enforcement screws for the firewall and landing gear mount.

We then prepared the building table for the fuse construction. Like always, we used our indexed hardwood boards and went through our process of clamping them together making sure they are flat, straight, and have no twist in them. Once satisfied, straps are screwed to the board ends and the board assembly is clamped to the table.

We next laid out the fuse top view plans to the board and for now just made sure our motor boxes matched the plans. tomorrow we'll start building the fuse's.

Tom 1_23_17-7.jpg (599kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 1_23_17-9.jpg (861kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 1_23_17-13.jpg (542kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 1_23_17-10.jpg (788kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 10-29-18_2.jpg (770kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 10-29-18_1.jpg (761kb) downloaded 0 time(s).
Offline Tom Wheeler  
#6 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 6:02:41 PM(UTC)
Tom Wheeler

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Ron and I had a full day of building and got a great deal done, so I'm going to split this report into two parts, first is the fuse sheeting.

First thing I worked on is the fuse sheeting. Each kit had a 10 sheet bundle of 1/8 x 4 x 48" balsa. Cam true edges each bundle and marks to show the true edge, this is a real time safer. I weighed the sheets, and each bundle had 5 sheets at 43 grams and 5 sheets of 54 grams. Since 4 sheets are used for each fuse sides I set it up for Ron's 170 powered aircraft the heavier sheet, 2 for each side would be at the front and the lightest 2 would be in the tail. For mine, the opposite was used, heavy in the tail and lighter for the front. This is not much, but it all helps in the end setting up for CG.

With our long straight edge on the table, I placed the sheeting, true edge against straight edge and the used a 30/60 angle to cut scarf joints. The other option if you don't care to make scarf joints, is to make them simply vertical. But if you do them that way, make sure the joint is glued to the middle of one of the 3/8" vertical fuse braces.

With all of the scarf carefully made in aircraft pairs and also so that one side of an aircraft had the "V" scarf going forward and the other going aft, it was time to edge glue them with Titebond I. As I glued each sheet together, I used heavy hard wood boards to hold them down in place with of course wax paper in-between. When all sides were glued and weighted with the boards, more weights were then added to the stack.

Part two, setting up the fuse sides to the motor box will be added shortly, going to dinner with my wife....

Tom
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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#7 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2018 6:04:52 PM(UTC)
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PART TWO:

Our next goal was to exactly locate and glue in the ply wing and stab tube sleeve supports to the inside of our frame in fuse sides. This can be done as you frame in all of the 3/8" square inter fuse sides just by using the plans and carefully placing the supports where they are shown on the plans. Cam does it this way and has no issues, but we chose to "mock up" the fuse build over the plans without the fuse sheeting or those mounts yet clued in place.

Since we are doing a mock up with out any fuse sheeting, using a long straight edge we screwed in "speed angles" to the fuse line representing outside edge of the inter 3/8" fuse structure, not to the outside line that includes the 1/8" fuse sheeting.

Once all of the speed angles were in place, we placed the motor box in location as per plans and figured out the angle that has to be sanded on the fuse side structure to match F1 on the motor box. Ron marked off the angle the needed to be sanded then clamped the side down on another building board and using a long bar sander shaped the leading edge of the fuse sides.

Now with the fuse sides and motor box clamped together in placed and aligned correctly to the plans, Ron also added some scrap wood sticks as temporary fuse cross bracers to keep the fuse sides flush to the speed angles. He then slipped the wing sleeve with tube inserted, (don't want to distort the sleeve) through wing tube holes in the motor box. Because the fuse sides are on an angle, the true shape of the wing tube fuse support hole has to be some what sanded on the forward outside edge of the support and also sanded on the aft inside edge of the support in order to slide on to the tube sleeve on an angle. There wasn't a whole lot of sanding needed, but if you didn't the wing sleeve could be distorted and the wing tube might not slide through easy.

Now both working together we checked first to see that the motor box and wing tube was level, and then placed wood planks on top of the fuse sides with weights to keep everything flat with the board.

For the fuse stab tube supports we did something a bit different this year. To lock in the placement of the stab tube supports we made of some adjustable jigs that will allow us to finely locate the placement of the stab tube horizontally so that its parallel to the wing tube and also able to vertically adjust each side so that it is also level to the wing tube as well.

The jigs are quite simple, the base is 1/4 x 1/2 x 6" spruce that also has slots so they can be screwed to the building board and move forward and aft. The vertical rails have a hole for the bolts and wing nuts to hold up the 1/8" light ply stab tube fixture. The light ply plate also has slots vertical so that it can be adjusted up or down.

With these jig/fixtures in place it was very simple to align the wing tube support and the stab tube supports. At this time we just glued and clamped wing and stab supports to the fuse rails. The wing and stab tube sleeves will not be glued until have the fuse sides sheeted and glue in all of the cross bracing. The jigs will remain where they are now, so once the fuse is all built up, the sleeves, tubes will be placed back in the jig, then the sleeves will be glued to the fuse structure.

Tom
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Offline Krzy4rc  
#8 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 8:32:22 AM(UTC)
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Thank you for putting this on the IMAC site, Great stuff!
Rich
Krzy4RC
SC-ARD (Louisiana)
IMAC Newsletter Editor
Team Jeti
Hybrid Pilot/Troublemaker
Offline heliperry  
#9 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 9:30:54 AM(UTC)
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This is great, now I know what I can use my wife's weights for.
Keep up the great work.BigGrin
Offline Tom Wheeler  
#10 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 4:29:29 PM(UTC)
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Thanks guys for the comments, here are some more updates....

Ron and I were able to work a little more than a half day.
The first thing we did was to glue the fuse sheeting to both aircraft. We started with the DA 200 fuse first, as mentioned earlier for this aircraft the heavier end of the fuse sheeting was used at the rear of the fuse for reasons of CG. We used Titebond II to glue the fuse frames to the fuse sheeting. After we glued the first set for the DA 200 powered airframe we laid hard wood rails over the newly laminated fuse sides then placed our hardwood planks over the rails and weights over them and left to cure. We only did one fuse set at a time and let cure for 2 hours before doing the DA 170 powered airframe next. This aircraft the heavier sheeting was used up front. So both sets of fuse sides are sheeted and waiting to be joined to the motor boxes.

While the first fuse set was curing, we re-located all of the speed squares so that they would now include the fuse sheeting. We also locked in the motor box to the building board using thick balsa blocks screwed to the building board.

To cut the wing tube socket holes into the sheeted fuse side, we clamped one side at a time in position and used an old aluminum wing tube with a sharpened end to cut through the balsa sides. We also held a large wood block to the area being cut to prevent any un-intended bust throughs. When one side was done, it was removed and the second side was clamped in position and the process was repeated.

For the stab tube holes, we used a 7/8" diameter tube, again with a sharpened tip to cut through the balsa sheeting. The stab and wing tube holes needed to be opened up just a bit with sanding to allow the tube sleeves to fit. 11-1-18_1.jpg (1,027kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_2.jpg (796kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_3.jpg (830kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_6.jpg (634kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_4.jpg (894kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_7.jpg (922kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_5.jpg (1,049kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-1-18_20.jpg (789kb) downloaded 0 time(s).
Offline Tom Wheeler  
#11 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 4:30:53 PM(UTC)
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Friday Ron and Ralph were able to glue in all of the fuse cross brace in both aircraft. They use this handy little cut guide that we have been using since forever and it works great to find the angle and length needed for each stick. All of the 3/8" square balsa glued fuse braces were glued in using Titebond II.

Today, with the DA 150/170 airframe still in the gig, we set up to glue in the wing phenolic sleeve and carbon fiber stab sleeve into the fuse. We started out by sliding wing sleeve with carbon fiber tube into the fuse sides and motor box. A little sanding of the openings in the sides and motor box was needed so that the phenolic and tube slid in without any binding. The whole idea is to have the fit firm, yet not binding so that it doesn't influence the angle of the tube in relation to the centerline of the fuse.

We did the same for the stab tube and sleeve, but this time we also used our stab tube jigs to insure the stab and wings are perpendicular to the vertical fuse centerline and also parallel to each other from a planform view. We did this by having the tubes equal distance out from the fuse sides and then carefully measuring the distances from wing tube tip to stab tube tip on both sides of the fuse. Once we were satisfied, the jigs were tightened so the stab tube was lock in place. We then used Zpoxy with glass filler to glue the sleeve's in place. This process was completed for both aircraft.

After the Zpoxy had cured, we cut off the excess phenolics with a razer saw and then sanded them flush to the fuse sides. Next we replace the temporary stick fuse tail posts with 3/8" balsa sheet stock cut and sanded to fit flush. Then made the tail wheel mount using 1/8" and 1/4" light ply, these were glued together and clamp. Before gluing them into the rear of the fuse, we will add blind nuts so the tail wheel assembly can be attached.

That's were we are now, Monday just a few more little things to do on the fuse's and we will start on all of the sheeting.

Tom 11-3-18_4.jpg (736kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_5.jpg (833kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_6.jpg (575kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_1.jpg (690kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_7.jpg (839kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_2.jpg (717kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_8.jpg (851kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_9.jpg (788kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_3.jpg (896kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-3-18_10.jpg (807kb) downloaded 0 time(s).

Edited by user Friday, November 9, 2018 4:41:25 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline Tom Wheeler  
#12 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 4:32:17 PM(UTC)
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Ron and I worked on more fuse details today. Started out by making 1/8" balsa fuse doubler's for the elevator servo lead exits. This is done just to reinforce the sheeting so that in time it will not crack with the constant connecting the servo leads. We used our handy servo exit guide for location, then use a Dremel to cut them out.

6-32 Blind nuts were glued in place on the back side of the tail wheel mounting plate and then Zpoxy the assembly to the underside of the fuse.

We decided to get as much of the radio gear mounting and supporting hardware in the airframes before we speckle paint the inside of the fuses.
Both aircraft will have easy adjustable CG by using carbon fiber tubes (rails) running forward and aft so that the radio/battery tray can slide to adjust the CG. For my aircraft with the DA 200 the rails run from the rear of the motor box to vertical fuse braces one bay aft of the front of the turtle deck. For Ron's with the DA 170 the rails need to run between the firewall and front fuel tank support rail. I was able to make the front and rear supports out of 1/4" light ply for my system as we had templates from Jerry's build last year. For Ron's he had to make new drawings of the parts as this is the first time for this system on a two cylinder aircraft. Most of his parts are now made, tomorrow they will go on his aircraft.

I was also able to sheet what will be the top of the canister tunnel and also mount a JTEC servo box in location for the throttle servo. I also started to make little 1/16" balsa catch trays that will go outboard of the motor box to the fuse sides for the first two bay so that when you at the field, wing nuts, bolts or anything else will not fall down to the bottom of the fuse. When I get both sets for each aircraft cut to shape, they will be glued in and will also have a little vertical aft piece to keep from rolling off the back.

Tom 11-5-18_3.jpg (519kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_5.jpg (556kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_13.jpg (931kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_6.jpg (812kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_8.jpg (598kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_12.jpg (492kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_1.jpg (519kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_7.jpg (801kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_4.jpg (962kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_11.jpg (720kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_2.jpg (611kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_9.jpg (654kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 11-5-18_10.jpg (719kb) downloaded 0 time(s).
Offline Tom Wheeler  
#13 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 4:33:35 PM(UTC)
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Ron and I decided to get as much of the equipment location and mounting fabrication completed on each fuse before moving on to sheeting. So we started out the day completing the front rail system for Ron's aircraft. We also mounted his engine and canisters to help locate his throttle servo.
Next was to complete the catch trays on both aircraft, fabricate and mount the canister mounts and install vertical grain 3/32" balsa doublers to the area on the fuse for the fuel dots and switch.

Tom
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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#14 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 4:35:54 PM(UTC)
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Ron and I started out looking over the fuse's and thinking about other things to do that would make sense to add now. One of the many nice features on the JTEC kits is the rear fuse access hatch. This allow you to help fish servo wires when your doing the first install. But another great feature is those times out in the field and your just ready hook up your elevator servo extensions and one or both of the fuse extension has fallen inside...what a pain.... With the addition of this service hatch, its not a problem at all. The hatch we made is 1/8" light ply, the mounting tabs are the same. We were thinking what side for the hatch would be best for us. Since we both fly at the same field and generally in the morning, where we assemble aircraft, the sun in on the right side, so that is the side we used.

Next we enclosed our canister tunnels with 1/16" balsa. I went on to making up all of the sheeting carefully allocating the balsa according to weight and location for the particular aircraft. First was the front canopy hatch area, then the rudders and ended my day with the two upper turtle decks. Tomorrow I'll start the day edge gluing these pieces, place them under weighted boards to keep them flat while curing. Then continue with the belly pans, stabs and finally wing sheeting.

While I was doing this, Ron started to make up the movable radio/battery trays. He first worked on mine for the 200, this tray will have the two A-123 receiver batteries in the rear and provision for my Smart Fly in front. The tray's are being made with the same aircraft ply used for the motor box structure. This is a really stout ply that is very stiff and that is good in terms of support, but it is much heavier then light ply, so Ron added lightening holes to the structure.

For Ron's 170 powered airframe, he will fabricate two trays, one for his batteries that will be at the front of the motor box, and the other that will be somewhat aft of that location for his Smart Fly. Each aircraft will have additional small tray to house the multiplex aileron servo connections mid fuse.

Tom
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Offline Tom Wheeler  
#15 Posted : Friday, November 9, 2018 4:37:23 PM(UTC)
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Ralph joined us today, it's good to have the extra help.

Ron and Ralph finished up the location adjustable equipment trays for both aircraft. The first picture is the basic set up for Ron's, the tray in front is for three A123 batteries and the second tray is for a Smart Fly power expander. The next photo shows the mounts for the Tail Dragger RC multiplex aileron plug in's. The third photo shows my basic set up with a single adjustable location tray with two A123 batteries and the Smart Fly expansion board. The other small tray is for the aileron multiplex plug in's.

While they were working on those, I started by edge gluing the forward hatch, turtle deck, and rudder sheeting with Titebond I for both aircraft. These sheets were placed under hardwood boards and weights until cured.
Next I made up the sheeting for the forward and aft belly pans and then Ron and I taped together the sheeting for the stabs. As with the turtle deck sheeting, the belly pans have wide 3M 2080 tape perpendicular to the edge tape. This really helps on heavily curved sheeting to smooth the sheeting and keep it from cracking or splitting during the vacuum curing phase.

Tomorrow we will edge glue all of this sheeting and make up the wing sheeting.

Tom
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